Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Final posting on E0291 Wrap

This has to be one of the loveliest garments I have made in a long time, new or old patterns.  The FBA was easy to do and just check it out to see how I did the adjustments.

I can just see this lovely wrap in the fall with a black turtle neck and skinny pants or a pencil skirt just like this!
Instead of doing a satin trim on the sleeves I did a flat lace that seemed to bring out the best in the soft gray silk.

Pattern Review Checklist:
  1.  Pattern Description - Loose fitting spring/fall wrap, a perfect dressy change instead of a sweater
  2.  Pattern Sizing - 36 but really just is so loose fitting it would fit the average lady.
  3.  Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing  it? No, I used a lace instead of satin for the trim on the sides and made the collar the same color as the body of the garment.  Also, I didn't put the belt on it.
  4. Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't follow directions, just went by the picture.  I forgot to print them out and then found I really didn't need them.  I found out after I had mine almost finished that the layout was printed wrong in the instructions so maybe it was a good thing I didn't follow them.  I also didn't really care for the belt so decided to use a light chain belt.
  5. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Since I am extremely "curvy" I had to do a FBA  so that the front didn't pull up.
  6. Fabric Used - silk with lace trim and rayon a lining
  7. Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  See my FBA adjustment at this link.
  8. Would you recommend this pattern to others? Definitely, it is something I would wear and would make it again in light wool for cooler weather.
  9. Conclusion - A wonderful garment and I would make another one and would recommend it to others.
VPLL Checklist
  1.  Pattern Name - Wrap E0291
  2. Sewer’s Skill Level: Advance, Intermediate, Beginner - Somewhere between a beginner and intermediate.
  3. Pattern Rating: 1-Not a Fan, 2 – So-So, 3 – Good/Average, 4-Better than Average, 5-I LOVED IT! and why? 5 I loved it.  The made up into a wonderful wrap that is something I will actually use.  It was easy to make up and is becoming to all body types.
  4. What skill level would someone need to sew this pattern and why? A beginner could easily handle this with no problem if they didn't line it or a brave beginner could do it with a lining.
  5. Were the instructions easy to follow? If not, what needs to be changed?  I didn't use the instructions, but after finishing it found out that the instructions for the layout was wrong.
  6. How was the fit/sizing?  Did it correspond to what you thought?  It was a good fit with slight adjustments and would fit most average women with no adjustments at all.
  7. Did you make any pattern alterations? If so, what alterations did you make? Where they fit or design alterations?
  8. Other notes:  My friend has already requested I make one for her!  That alone tells me that this is a great pattern.

FBA for the wrap

Even though the wrap is loose when you are busty you still have to do some adjustments in order to allow length for the front and not increase the shoulders.  Fortunately this is an easy fix with this pattern.

First slit the pattern front up to 5 inches below where the shoulder dart is.  This actually forms an inverted V shape that you are cutting.  Please note the picture below.
Note that you spread the front of the pattern more than the side pieces which allows the extra bust area.  This is really very simple fix and for those of us with a "curvy" shape so very necessary.

Monday, April 23, 2012

Final Check list on #0191

Be sure and check out my other posts on this blouse.  Started out simple but....  Then it went down hill.  You can always check out http://Maxwellscountry.blogspot.com for more adventures with this top.
VPLL Checklist
  1.  Pattern Name Blouse - E0191
  2. Sewer’s Skill Level: Advance, Intermediate, Beginner - Still a beginner but getting better every garment
  3. Pattern Rating: 1-Not a Fan, 2 – So-So, 3 – Good/Average, 4-Better than Average, 5-I LOVED IT! and why? 1 - this pattern was hard to make up and nothing seemed to fit together no matter what I did.
  4. What skill level would someone need to sew this pattern and why? - Advanced as this pattern would require a lot of adjustments to actually fit an adult woman.
  5. Were the instructions easy to follow? If not, what needs to be changed?  It wasn't the instructions that made this blouse hard it was the pattern that just didn't fit together correctly no matter what I did.
  6. How was the fit/sizing?  Did it correspond to what you thought?  fit and sizing were the main problem.  The shoulders were too tight and it was so short it ended up being a halter top, not very 1912.....
  7. Did you make any pattern alterations? If so, what alterations did you make? Where they fit or design alterations?  I did all kinds of fit alterations, made the top longer, did a FBA, added a gusset under the arms to allow movement and put a band on the bottom.  The 2nd time I made it up I did all those changes plus it changed the way it was laid out to allow the back center to be on the straight of grain.  As for design changes I tried to keep the essence of the blouse the same as the pattern but the 2nd time I made it I did not line it as the lining did not match up with the blouse.  This actually made it fit better along with all the other changes I did to the pattern.
  8. Other notes:  This was really a rough project, I didn't enjoy anything about making this garment at all

Final results on the slip 0336


VPLL Checklist
  1.  Pattern Name - Slip #E0336
  2. Sewer’s Skill Level: Advance, Intermediate, Beginner - Somewhere between a beginner and intermediate as it has been awhile since I have done any sewing other than kids clothing or quilting. As I get more work under my belt the more I will feel like an intermediate.
  3. Pattern Rating: 1-Not a Fan, 2 – So-So, 3 – Good/Average, 4-Better than Average, 5-I LOVED IT! and why? -  4 - I really enjoyed doing this slip as I have been learning to use heirloom techniques and this was a chance to get to use some of them.
  4. What skill level would someone need to sew this pattern and why? A beginner with some skills could do this if they took their time.  This is where I feel like I am now so if I can do it anyone can!
  5. Were the instructions easy to follow? If not, what needs to be changed?  I really didn't follow the directions but I don't tend to follow the guide sheets when sewing with commercial patterns. 
  6. How was the fit/sizing?  Did it correspond to what you thought?  The sizing was more for "curvy" bodies so it was great for me, I was really surprised that only a little FBA was required to make it fit and the waist and hip were fine. 
  7. Did you make any pattern alterations? If so, what alterations did you make? Where they fit or design alterations?  The only alteration to the pattern was a FBA and that required that I use the ribbon beading at the neckline to adjust it.  After doing this, it seemed like it was a perfect way to do this fitting adjustment, after all, this is a slip
  8. Other notes:  Fun start to this project!  Now for the rest of my outfit.

Wrapped corners for the wrap

Just a few quick updates on the wrap.  I have done all the corners with a wrapped corner technique, it makes a sharp corner without having to fight them.   Instead of pivoting at the corner, stitch the seam all the way off the end of the fabric.  Fold on the stitching line and press the seam allowance down.  (Grade the seam if heavy weight or bulky fabric)  Start the other side of the corner seam over the folded edge. After completing the seam, trim the corner but I don't find it necessary with thin fabrics.  If you have any questions just ask and I will try my best to explain.  I learned this from watching the PBS show, "Sewing with Nancy".  I am sure that Nancy Zieman's web site would have better instructions than mine! 


I have decided to change the trim on the wrap to lace instead of the trim strip the pattern calls for.  It is working out fine and I can hardly wait to finish it where I can post pictures!



Saturday, April 21, 2012

Wrap 0291 adjustments

I am just starting on the wrap pattern and am so glad that I finally got a dressform to do the fitting.  I had to do a good deal of adjustments to the form to make it shaped like me.  I am way to curvy!  I put a bra on it and stuffed it with fiberfill so that it would fit.  I have a normal chest size but my boobs are just too big.  I only need a size 36 bra but then I need a G or H cup size.  I don't understand why so many men and women think "big uns" would be so wonderful, they don't have to carry them around.  Oh well, on to the important stuff, pattern fitting!  I had to move the bust darts and lengthen the front but no adjustments were needed on the back.  I am going to try and figure out how the side seams will go together.  May have to add a dart or change the length of the tips where the tassels are sewn on.  Will have to figure that out.  Now I have to go out and see if I have 2 1/4 yards of some kind of fabric to make this out of.   I have some pretty silk but I don't think there is enough to make it up so I may just have to use something else.  I went to JoAnn's yesterday and won't be going back to the fabric store until next month.  This is the joy of country living!  Really, I wouldn't trade it for anything but it is tough to have to plan trips to town especially with gas almost $4.00 a gallon and the fabric store is 40 miles one way.                                                                                                                                                 

Monday, April 16, 2012

1912 Changes rules :(

Well, the 1912 Project has changed the rules and I am not sure if I qualified for the 2 garments I already made.  It is just confusing but I think I just need to go and re-read the stuff they sent out.  I loved making the slip and with a FBA it fit just fine.  The blouse was another story, I did so many adjustments on the pattern and it still doesn't "feel" right but I have one more idea, a gusset under the arm.  Nothing ventured, nothing gained.  If I don't get the disk with the patterns I guess it will be just one of those things.

Friday, April 13, 2012

Spring mantle

It has been awhile since I have posted but sometimes being a caretaker for a loved one gets in the way.  I have finally got the spring mantle taped together and am ready to do the FBA and cut out a muslin.  I have some light wool fabric that I think I will make this out of but will have to see if there is enough to make it.  I wish I had it made for this past week, it has been chilly after having 85 degree weather for the past 2 weeks.

I have also requested the girls pattern 0165 for Bridget.  She is only 12 but will be able to wear this dress and since she is mature looking it will be good for her, she didn't want any "baby looking" things!  12 going on 21!!!!  This one should be a real adventure.